WIP….Beast 09 Part 5

18 Feb 13

 

WIP….Beast 09 Part 5

 

Beast is finally finished.

 

I’m going to step through the basic painting process to help everyone see what I did.

 



 

Paints: Reaper (R) Vallejo (V) Games Workshop (GW) Privateer Press (PP) 

 

Whites;

PP Menoth White

V Sepia Shade

PP Jackbone

PP Menoth Highlight 

 

Reds;

GW 50/50 mix of Mechrite Red & Caithan Brown

GW Baal Red Wash

R Blood Red

R Bright Red

R Phoenix Red

 

Greens;

R Olive Shadow

GW Thraka Green Wash

V German Field Green

V Russian Uniform

V Green Grey

 

Metalics;

Silver – R Blackened Steel & R Tarnished Steel

Gold -   R Old Bronze & R Tarnished Brass

 

To begin, I use a white painting technique I found on Hand Cannon Online.  This is a great tutorial that allows you to paint whit without actually using white.  This is by far the longest and hardest step of painting the whole model since white is the predominate color.   I used a 60/40 mix of PP Menoth White and medium to build up a nice smooth base.  Over a black primer, this will take 3-4 good coats to get the desired finish.  You don’t want this to be too thick because it will cause clumping and give your paint an uneven look. 

 

After that is finished and dried thoroughly, use a 50/50 V Sepia wash and water mixture over base paint.  This wash is done to smooth out the base coat and will also serve as a guild for the shadow layer coming up next.

 

The shadow layers are created using as mixture of two parts of your base coat mixture with a drop of PP Jackbone and another drop of medium to give it a consistency between pain and a glaze.  I begin to layer the shadows with this thinned out mixture building it up till a get the look I’m wanting.  This step may take several layers depending on how thin your paint mixture is, but I feel that when you’re blending thinner is better than and taking your time will achieve the look you want.

 

Once you achieve the shadow, it’s time to start applying the highlights.  Again using your PP Menoth White base mixture, add a drop of PP Menoth Highlight and a drop of medium to the mix.   The highlights are done in the same manner as the shadow.  Using the Sepia wash as a guide, slowly build up your layers of highlight until you reach the desired effect.  

 

After all the white highlights and shadows are applied, again add a 50/50 V Sepia wash and water mixture over the whited areas to smooth any rough transition areas between the layers.

The next step is to begin the red.  Normally when I paint a warjack, I lay down a good smooth base coat, layer on a good wash, the dry brush up the highlights.  However, since I want beast to be to be a show piece model, I’ll be using wet blending to get the red and green up to the desired look.  

 

I start with a 50/50 mixture of GW Mechrite Red & Caithan Brown.  This goes on straight without a medium additive.  I have found that the foundation paints from GW usually take two good layers to get them smooth.  After this, I add a GW Baal red wash.  This gives a smooth deep red coat from which we’ll build on.  After the wash dries, I begin adding highlights.  First is a 50/50 mixture of R Blood Red and medium.  Again since I’m using wet blending here, I want to keep this layer thin, once I reach the desired effect, I add a drop of r Bright Red and another drop of medium, followed by a drop of R Phoenix Red and another drop of medium.  The trick here is a get the red paint to look looking vibrant without going orange. 

 

The green layers are done the same way as the red.  While I want to do Beast 09 close to the cannon color scheme, I also have a 5^th Border Legion theme going.  So I replace all the black areas in the cannon scheme with green.   I start with a base coat of R Olive Shadow thinned with a 3/1 medium mixture.  After this coat is on and smooth, I then added GW Thraka Green wash.  After that it’s just a matter of wet blending the V German Field Green and V Russian Uniform to the desired consistency.

It’s now on to the metallic areas of the model.  The V Neutral Grey applied earlier serves as a great base and guide to adding R Blackened Steel.  This is applied in one smooth coat.  Afterwards, I use a ink wash mixture found in No Quarter #1 which mixes blue and brown ink.  This gives silver areas a nice polished look.  I thin add some basic line heights with the R Tarnished Steel.   

 

Gold areas are built up using R old Bronze right over the brown areas.  I thin add a thinned brown and red ink mixture and then line highlight with R Tarnished Brass.  

Once all the main areas of the model are complete, I then needed to weather it.  As you remember when I began this project I laid down some rust and metallic damages areas to various parts of the model and then over laid these with liquid mask.  Now that the painting of the carapace is complete, I use a toothpick and carefully scrape away the liquid mask revealing the damaged areas.  I now use the same red/brown ink mixture I used on my gold to smooth the transition areas between the damaged and painted areas. 

I also at this point add MIG Light Rust Effects to all the silver areas on the model.  After all, this monster has been in the field for some time.  I then add some weathering powders to the legs, arms, and underside of the carapace to give an even further cohesive look. 

 

 

The last part of this model to paint is the ice on the axe.  This is also the part of the model I’ve been dreading most.  I begin by laying down a smooth coat of Game Color Ice Blue.  I then gave this a 1/3 mixture of blue ink to water wash.  I added a drop of Game Color White Primer to the Ice Blue and layered and then continued to add white primer until I achieved a white icy look to the axe.

 

That was a lot of work.  All told, I put about 15 hours on work into this model but I’m very happy with the end result.